Original anecdotes, commentary, rumination, and occasional pontification.
JUNE 23, 2022 – I’m interrupting my “True Story” series—an explanation of life on earth, as told to an alien from a galaxy far, far away—and exceeding all self-imposed word limits (for “True Story,” I’ve increased my previous limit of 500 to 550) to write about the loss of a dear friend, the inimitable John …
MAY 20, 2022 – In early December I flew from Heathrow to JFK. In New York I presented my passport for the last time on my Grand Odyssey. It contained so many stamps I’d had to have extra pages added by the U.S. Embassy in Stockholm, and the cover was so worn, the gold lettering …
MAY 18, 2022 – After another day in Moscow, I traveled by train to Leningrad, then westward to Helsinki. From the Finnish capital, I steamed farther west to Stockholm. There I visited my cousin Anders before heading southwest to Malmö to see our cousins Merith and Mats-Åke. The November daylight in Sweden was short and …
MAY 15, 2022 – As the train approached Yaroslav Station in Moscow seven days after departing Khabarovsk, Sasha, my carriage attendant, and Yuri, chief of the train crew, found their way to my compartment. Yuri wanted to give me directions to the upscale restaurant to which he’d invited me for dinner the following evening. Sasha …
MAY 14, 2022 – When the train reached major cities like Perm, Omsk, Sverdlovsk, and Novosibirsk, I was amazed by the size of such places that prior to my trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway, I hadn’t even known existed. Each had a population of well over a million—larger than today’s combined population of the “Twin …
MAY 12, 2022 – (Cont. See 5/10/22 post) The public misbehavior of my two countrymen was unsettling. Throughout my formal education—and in life generally—I’d been no stranger to debate. But exactly how, I wondered, could two Americans aboard a Russian train become so locked in dispute as to lose all self-awareness—especially in the absence of alcohol? …
MAY 7, 2022 – If Russians readily conceded that they didn’t enjoy the same level of material prosperity as Americans, it was because the American military threat had forced the USSR to spend even more money on defense. This was a nearly universal sentiment—er, Communist Party line—among the Russians I met. The truth, of course, …
APRIL 22, 2022 – Upon returning to my cousin Merith’s family apartment in Malmö, I gave my eager audience—Merith, Peter (her husband, the Polish count), and my cousin Mats-Åke (Merith’s brother)—an exhaustive account of my travels across Poland. After a long nap, I began the project of writing home about it. Through the prism of …
APRIL 1, 2022 – Twice in Switzerland—during my 1979 Eurail trip—I’d practiced a “religion” of mine: downhill skiing. One “worship ceremony” occurred on the Aletsch Glacier next to the Jungfrau in the Bernese Oberland. Surrounded by Alpine peaks and bathed in sunshine, I made two mistakes: I wore shorts and forgot to apply sunscreen to …
MARCH 28, 2022 – Having spent considerable time inside the old Austro-Hungarian Empire, I next aimed for Vienna, capital of that old regime. Two years earlier I’d visited Salzburg, where I hiked in nearby mountains. If Salzburg was Mozart’s hometown and the movie set for The Sound of Music, Vienna was the larger magnet for …
MARCH 8, 2022 – Two years before, I’d approached Athens from Italy via Corfu. That sojourn had been part of a two-week mini-odyssey to Europe—my first trip abroad. My sister Jenny and I had flown Icelandair to Luxembourg, and using Eurail Passes—immensely popular among young American travelers—we’d journeyed to Sweden to visit relatives. By North …
FEBRUARY 23, 2022 – Blogger’s Note: I dedicate this series to close friends and fellow world travelers (Including India!), Jack Hoeschler and Linda Lovas Hoescholer. Jack is currently experiencing a rough patch in his own Tropic of Cancer. With his unfailing sense of humor, he called me first thing this morning to report on his …
FEBRUARY 22, 2022 – If I’d traveled to Kashmir to experience its natural beauty, I first had to negotiate past the many people trying to make a living off the few people like me. Like a cloud of flies, Kashmiris pestered relentlessly. In my letter home, I describe the “shikara men” who surrounded our houseboat: …
FEBRUARY 13, 2022 – For this, my 1,000th post, I’m taking a break from India to return to immediate concerns. Six weeks have passed since my first session with Dr. Kolla, my oncologist, who, as life turns, was born, reared, and educated in . . . India. I’d choose none other than this extraordinary doctor …
FEBRUARY 7, 2022 – During my two-month sojourn in NZ and Australia, I’d encountered many Europeans who’d ventured there via India. Time—and illness—on the Subcontinent seemed to be a rite of passage. No traveler had not experienced gastrointestinal problems, and everyone emphasized that no matter how much you heard or read about India, nothing could …
FEBRUARY 6, 2022 – As hours rolled by, I stared in wonder out the picture window of my compartment. Often, I imagined peering out the window of a spacecraft circling Mars just above the surface: the arid infinity outside was mesmerizing in its “other worldliness.” At a refueling stop in Cook (now a ghost town; …
FEBRUARY 4, 2022 – Even back then Sydney, capital of New South Wales, was the big, splashy city of “Down Under.” I spent several days there, impressed by its busy harbor, cosmopolitan feel, world-class modern architecture—including the harbor-front Opera House (and a recital inside)—and expansive botanical garden. But naturally, I was drawn to . . …
FEBRUARY 3, 2022 – From the sea, I turned to Kuranda in the rainforest along Queensland’s northeastern “fringe.” Other travelers had recommended Kuranda as a “Bohemian outpost in Eden,” and the pathway was well established. Joined by Karen and now my romantic interest, Debbie, we hiked to the heights of towering waterfalls and admired the …
FEBRUARY 1, 2022 – Like most visitors in those days, I traveled “the eastern fringe”—the coastline between Sydney in the southeast and Port Douglas in the northeast, well above the Tropic of Capricorn. The big attraction was the Great Barrier Reef, yet much else influenced my itinerary—from Kuranda, a Garden of Eden deep in the …
JANUARY 31, 2022 – Heavy hearted, I boarded the Qantas 747 to Brisbane. Ahead lay unmeasured time filled with untold adventures, but I couldn’t imagine how they’d compete with the experiences behind me. For a month I’d been ensconced in Treasure Island[s], and it was hard to let go. Yet, this was the rhythm of …
JANUARY 30, 2022 – When people outside NZ think of that paradise, they consider flora, fauna, and geography. But of all the countries I’ve visited, none exudes the civility of NZ. This assessment overlooks historical injustices toward the Maori and the anomaly of the 2019 mosque attack, but NZ’s well-established, civilized reputation is otherwise fully …
JANUARY 29, 2022 – In those days, to venture down “The Most Beautiful Walk in the World,” a reservation was required—along with rain gear and sturdy hiking boots. Average annual rainfall in that region pushes 300 inches. Since most of the Milford Track follows a canyon floor, the trek can be a muddy slog from …
JANUARY 28, 2022 – I’d latched onto four facts about “Down Under,” two appearing in old National Geographic magazines: 1. “The most beautiful walk in the world” was at the south end of NZ’s South Island; and 2. The longest straight railway in the world (297 mi/478 km) stretched across Australia’s Nullarbor Plain. Well known …
JANUARY 27, 2022 – Blogger’s note: our younger son, Byron, asked me to post about my trip around the world–starting 41 years ago. Through the prism of my current circumstances, his suggestion inspires re-examination in fresh light. I’ll endeavor to make installments compelling without lapsing into “travelogue” mode. Photo credit: my grandmother, whose family friend, “Hoxie” …
JANUARY 25, 2022 – Yesterday my good doctor announced that treatments of my disease are having the desired effect. This was good news against the other reality he revealed: last week’s CT scan showed that many of my of bones are like “Swiss Cheese” but will repair themselves over the next few months. The “Swiss …