Original anecdotes, commentary, rumination, and occasional pontification.
MAY 10, 2022 – (Cont.) “On board our train [from Moscow to Irkutsk],” I wrote home, “was a small group of British and American tourists headed for Irkutsk, Ulan-Bator (capital of Mongolia), Beijing, and Hong Kong. Among them was a bloke from North Dakota named Karl. Karl, about 22 years old, was tall and gangly, …
MAY 9, 2022 – As previously noted, for nine of my 14 days aboard the 18-carriage Trans-Siberian train, I was the sole Westerner aboard, which fact conferred upon me celebrity status, especially given that I was from the leading nation of the West. My unique position allowed me to optimize my time and interactions with …
MAY 8, 2022 – My other prized souvenir from the Trans-Siberian train (see yesterday’s post) was the (real) silver, commemorative Russian tea glass holder impressed with an image of the Kremlin, “CCCP” (“USSR”), and “50,” marking the half-century since the (“glorious”) October Revolution of 1917. These exquisite tea glass holders were available for use aboard …
MAY 7, 2022 – If Russians readily conceded that they didn’t enjoy the same level of material prosperity as Americans, it was because the American military threat had forced the USSR to spend even more money on defense. This was a nearly universal sentiment—er, Communist Party line—among the Russians I met. The truth, of course, …
MAY 6, 2022 – Across my many conversations with Russians aboard the train, I endeavored to find consensus about one subject or another, such as national self-perception, for example, and impression of the United States, and most sensitive at the time—attitudes about the Soviet occupation of Afghanistan. One person’s opinion is only a data point, …
MAY 5, 2022 – After describing the scenery outside the train, my letter home focused on the highlight of the journey: my interaction with fellow passengers. “By living with Russians for 24 hours a day, for days on end,” I wrote, “I gained much understanding about their thinking and their way of life. I must …
MAY 4, 2022 – I took no photographs from the train or of any of the stations—it was strictly forbidden—but shot a roll of film on my side-trip to Lake Baikal and the village of Listvanka. In my letter home, I recorded visual impressions along the route. “Between Moscow and Khabarovsk there were about seven …
MAY 3, 2022 – My trip along the Trans-Siberian Railway was a signature experience; one revealing the paradoxical axiom that at once our world is too vast to comprehend and too small not to cherish. Timing was everything. The weather brought blizzards to some parts of Siberia, making the trip ever more Zhivagoan than it …
MAY 2, 2022 – “At 9:30 h. on [October 2],” I wrote home, “a big, black limousine picked me up at the hotel and whisked me to one of Moscow’s 11 train stations.” It was the Yaroslavski Station—western terminus of the Trans-Siberian Railway. For the next 16 days, I traveled across seven time zones to …
MAY 1, 2022 – In Moscow I took mini-expeditions via the Metro. With a Metro map from my hotel, I found the closest station and entered the most ornately beautiful subway system in the world—and so far below the surface, it doubled as a far-flung bomb shelter. It was said that Lenin believed the workers …
APRIL 30, 2022 – In laying plans for my sojourn in Russia, I’d learned that Western tourists had no choice but to stay at deluxe hotels . . . and pay in advance (hence the “payment voucher”) with convertible currency at the official exchange rate. One bonus of this arrangement was access to a large …
APRIL 29, 2022 – If you view Russia on a globe, you’ll see that the country is so vast, as the sun sets in the Russian Far East, it rises on St. Petersburg, f/k/a Leningrad, in the far west. For my three days in Leningrad, I’d barely reached Peter the Great’s “window to the West.” …
APRIL 28, 2022 – My tour of Leningrad was mostly self-directed—strolling along the canals, admiring the Italian architecture, the Bronze Horseman (statue of Peter the Great on horseback; commissioned by Catherine the Great); and inspecting the Aurora (the Russian cruiser that fired a blank shell to signal the beginning of the October 1917 Revolution). In …
APRIL 27, 2022 – As I wrote in my letter home, “The aesthetic shortcomings of my accommodations, though, were compensated a thousandfold by the beauty of Leningrad itself . . . The gilded dome of the imposing St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the tall, narrow gold spire of Peter and Paul Fortress, and the striking gold tower-spire …
APRIL 26, 2022 – (Cont.) My initial reaction was that the two guys had been masquerading as Intourist agents but were in fact, KGB. My second was that I’d been set up for entrapment, and I didn’t want to wind up in labor camp in Siberia. My third thought was, Where the hell is my …
APRIL 25, 2022 – On its way eastward 111 miles to the Russian border, the Soviet train sped through birch forests ablaze with autumn color and past tranquil, mystical lakes. The scenery was reminiscent of music by Finnish composer Jean Sibelius. I thought particularly about Sibelius’s Karelia Suite, inspired by the troubled history of Karelia, …
April 25, 2022 – My interest in Russia pre-dated my travels behind the Iron Curtain. When my sisters and I were young, every year a few days before Christmas our family would visit the Ibele’s in the Kenwood neighborhood of Minneapolis. Warren Ibele was Dean of the Engineering School at the U of MN, and …
APRIL 23, 2022 – After catching my breath in Malmö, I traveled back to Stockholm, my “jumping off” point for Finland and . . . Russia. In the Swedish capital, I spent three days with my cousin Anders, who, like our cousins in Malmö, was keenly interested in hearing about Poland and equally curious about …
APRIL 22, 2022 – Upon returning to my cousin Merith’s family apartment in Malmö, I gave my eager audience—Merith, Peter (her husband, the Polish count), and my cousin Mats-Åke (Merith’s brother)—an exhaustive account of my travels across Poland. After a long nap, I began the project of writing home about it. Through the prism of …
APRIL 21, 2022 – The next day I began my long trek from Zakopane back to Świnoujście via Wrocław—for me, a stopover city, which I explored on foot for an hour between arrival and departure. A German city (“Breslau”) before WW II, Wrocław, in its 1,000-year history, had been under Polish, Hungarian, Bohemian, Austrian, and …
APRIL 20, 2022 – After my dispiriting day at Auschwitz, I needed to repair to the mountains for some rigorous hiking. I retraced my steps to Krakow, then headed due south 100 km by train and bus to Zakopane. I’d heard and read much about the place, a resort town at the base of the …
APRIL 19, 2022 – It was in Krakow—at the youth hostel where I stayed—where I experienced the most memorable theater poster-based “class” (see 4/12/22 post). One of the other guests, Jerzy, was a young artist from Lublin. He spoke slow but understandable English and our conversation attracted the attention of six Polish students at the …
APRIL 18, 2022 – From Gdansk I traveled to Warsaw, then to Krakow. This former capital of the Nazi’s General Government during WW II had largely avoided the crushing destruction that had befallen Gdansk and Warsaw. In Krakow, therefore, “old” meant “original”—not, “reconstructed after the war”—and in many places, “original” meant the 14th century (St. …
APRIL 17, 2022 – It was a Sunday in Gdansk, and from my contacts the day before I’d learned about the dedication of a memorial at Stutthof, a Nazi concentration camp 21 miles east of Gdansk. I learned what bus route would take me there, and hiked to the bus stop a short distance to …
APRIL 16, 2022 – (Cont.) The procession led to a dark red brick, two-story abbey. I followed the leaders right to the front stoop and watched them disappear into the building. And there on the concrete steps I stood, an improbable observer—a 26-year-old, Protestant “amerikánsky”—in the company of three Polish Catholic nuns. I turned my …